Day 13: Aktse – Pårte
In the morning it’s still raining, but the weather forecast promises an improvement. When I have finished packing and want to fetch my shoes, I cannot find them in the hut. There are shoes of the same model, but in a smaller size. I’m alarmed, go outside and I’m just able to stop a hiker from disappearing with my shoes to Sitojaure… He probably mistook the shoes, and since they were a bit larger, he didn’t notice.
When I get to the boat dock the hut warden is already waiting. I’m the only passenger. The boat crossing of Laitaure offers beautiful views of the trinity Tjahkelij, Nammásj and Skierffe. However, the mountain tops are hidden by low-hanging clouds. From the other shore of the lake I follow the famous Kungsleden trail.
The trail leads mainly through mixed forest; sometimes I pass clearings and moor areas. The colours of the autumn leaves provide a bright color in the rather gloomy atmosphere.
The rain lets up more and more. Great, so I don’t have to ascend the next slope in full rain gear. When I reach the tree line, I stop for taking photos. There are views of Tjahkelij, the lake Lulep Suobbatjávrre and into Rapadalen. In the oppposite direction, the panorama is dominated by the huge Tjaktjajaure reservoir. It is sad, how much man has changed the landscape here.
Kungsleden climbs a little bit further before the terrain flattens. It’s quite windy up here. When I reach Jågge, a tiny rest hut for hikers, I take a short break. Walking on, the lake Rittak comes into view. It is connected with Tjaktjajaure but seems to be in an almost natural state. It is said that a lot of game can be found near Rittak.
After the pass between Favnoajvve and Huomnásj the trail descends steeply to the tree line. There are nice views of the Pårte mountains from here.
I end up in the forest again, which changes soon from birch to coniferous forest. Although I don’t have any views here, I really like the ancient trees covered with moss and lichen. This is virgin forest, which has become very rare in Europe, unfortunately.
The Pårte huts are idyllically situated on a peninsula in the lake Sjábttjakjávrre. I talk to the hut warden who offers me an entire hut compartment for myself (there are 8 beds in there). I accept the offer. It’s very windy outside, so staying in the hut seems very inviting. A night in a tent probably wouldn’t be very quiet
Day 14: Pårte – Stuor Dáhtá
The next morning there’s a mix of sun and clouds and still strong wind. My original plan to spend another night above the tree line (e.g., south of the lakes Stuor Dáhtá and Sjábttjakjávrre) is therefore canceled. That wouldn’t be any fun, because of the wind and also since the forecast promises a lot of rain for the next day. Maybe it was a mistake to not use my spare days elsewhere. Well, I’ll make the best of the situation and just go for a short walk today until I find a nice spot for camping and spend the rest of the day there.
I take some photos at the hut, because there are interesting spots of light on the landscape.
There’s only one night left before all the huts are closed for the season. Interestingly, the hut warden wants to take the same bus and train as I do. Before I leave, I’m invited for a coffee by the other guests. They’re volunteers who have repainted and repaired the huts during the last few days. Later they’re going to be picked up by helicopter.
I say goodbye and leave. The next kilometers are not very pleasant to walk, as the trail is quite stony. It seems that I’ve gotten spoiled and lazy ;-). Before noon I reach the lake Stuor Dáhtá and start looking for a campsite at the shore. Most suitable locations are exposed to the wind.
Finally I find a really nice place close to a small peninsula. While I set up my tent, the helicopter that picks up the people at the hut flies by twice. Then only the wind and the waves of the lake can be heard.
Today I’m lucky with the weather again! I really enjoy the afternoon in the sunshine.
At some point heavy clouds move in and I move into my tent. The predicted rain sets in late in the evening.
Day 15: Stuor Dáhtá – Kvikkjokk
As expected, it rains most of the night and doesn’t stop in the morning either. I’m happy that I was able to spend yesterday afternoon in the sunshine and out in nature.
After breakfast I pack up my things as quickly as possible, put on my rain clothes and walk the last few kilometers to Kvikkjokk without break or taking photos. When I reach my destination, I take a room in Kvikkjokk mountain station to dry my things properly.
That’s it. My hike is over and it has been really great! One thing is clear to me: I’ll be back :-)!